Map of Chianti Classico from Nicolas Belfrage's "Brunello to Zibibbo"

The tendency in Chianti Classico is to focus on its four main villages: Greve in the hills of northern Chianti Classico; Radda in the center; and Castellina and Gaiole in the south. Nicolas Belfrage, M.W., states in his masterful book, "Brunello to Zibibbo," "that the question of the importance of commune is not yet answered; but it would appear that commune is much less important than it is, say in the Haut-Médoc or Côte d'Or."

In past conversations with Chianti Classico producers, I've found that the discussion often leads to their vineyard's elevation or their use of Cabernet Sauvignon or the multiple varieties of Sangiovese clones planted at their estate. So, it was with pleasure that I found myself in the company on Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti this week, and we became deeply engaged in a conversation about her family's famous estate, the Badia a Coltibuono, and their vineyards which are planted in the small, quality sub-zone of Gaiole called Monti.

Monti is a frazione (a fraction) of the village of Gaiole, and as I learned, it is the source of some of my favorite Chianti Classicos. Emanuela informed me over lunch that Monti is essentially a small range of the Apennines, some 25km long and west of the river Arno. There the soil differs from the friable, marl-like galestro soil found in much of the Classico. It is a more calcium-rich albarese, or as Emanuela stated proudly, "we have limestone." A closer look at my wine atlas showed that many of my favorite Classico estates lie in the frazione Monti, including Castello di Cacchiano, Rocca di Montegrossi, San Giusto a Rentennano, and of course Badia a Colitibuono. What is it about the character of these wines that sets them apart from the rest of the Classico? Emanuela put it best, that "only Monti can deliver the level of intensity and purity of Sangiovese" that the above mentioned estates are known for.

The result is a sense of pride which Nicolas Belfrage explains in "Brunello to Zibibbo" in a section on the Il Palazzino Estate, also located in the frazione Monti: "the growers of Monti all seem very pleased with themselves in a quiet sort of way, as if entertaining no doubt that this sub-zone, some 400 meters above sea-level, with the clayey-calcareous soil called albarese, loose and moderately fertile, with good southern exposures, is the finest in all of Chianti."

Even after a great week of tasting including some impressive Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella and a Vilmart Cellier d'Or, I was awestruck at a Fourth of July gathering where I had the opportunity to taste a bottle of barleywine with its maker, über-brewer Brendan McGinn.

Barleywines are beer, but they often come close to wine-like strengths with McGinns 2007 barleywine nearing the 12 percent mark. Barleywines can develop remarkably wine-like flavors, with this example showing great aromatic complexity and a layered finish of sage, lilac and crusty rye bread. These beers develop their high strengths and wine notes from the use of ale yeasts (saccharomyces cerevisiae), often fermented and matured over long periods. Some American brewers have been known to use wine yeasts, capable of even greater alcoholic strength, but I preferred McGinn's, fermented with a classic American ale strain, to any other barleywine I have tasted.

Another important factor contributing to this beers complexity was its full year of bottle conditioning (aging on its own dead yeast cells). Much like the autolosis which occurs during Champagnes second fermentation in bottle (think Bollinger RD with around ten years of yeast contact), a bottle-conditioned barleywine will develop complexity and flavor during the gradual breakdown of yeasts. Barleywines also tend to display a natural sweetness balanced with the bitterness of hops. While most of the American barleywines I have sampled tend towards the sweeter side of the scale, McGinn's showed what I consider to be the more traditional, English-style of dry barleywine.

Barleywines are best served in a goblet style glass and at a serving temperature of between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Other barleywines to look for include Anchors Old Foghorn, Thomas Hardys, and what some consider one of the first barleywines to be marketed as such, Bass No. 1. McGinn is officially on my list of brewers to watch.

The Technical data:
McGinn's Barleywine 2007
Starting Gravity 1.090
90 International Bittering Units
Pilsner and Special B Malts
Galena and Cluster hops
Fermented with a classic American ale strain at 68-70 degrees Fahrenheit for three weeks
Bottle conditioned at 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit for one year

The wines of Sagrantino Di Montefalco are a true discovery and although this area has a history that is rich in wine the leading producer in this region is a relative newcomer to the region Arnaldo Caprai. In 1971 Arnaldo Caprai, a successful textile businessman, bought the Val di Maggio estate to fulfill his dream of producing his own wine. He started off with only five hectares, but as time went by he believed more and more in the great potential of the local variety Sagrantino and bought more of the surrounding land. In 1988 his son Marco Caprai started managing the winery and with his passion and determination gives the necessary impetus for the production of top quality wines. Since 1991 the Caprai’s have made huge investments into the acquisition of new vineyards, scientific research, technological innovation. Their efforts yielded results almost immediately and in its last six editions the Italian Guide to Wines published by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food Arcigola has awarded the prestigious Three Glasses to Caprai's Sagrantino 25 anni. Many other important recognitions have since been awarded to the winery, including the Super Three stars of Veronelli (awarded to wines that have reached levels of excellence for many years consecutively) and the Oscar of Wine as Best Producer of the Year awarded by the Italian Association of Sommelier. We met, and discuss wines of the world and his particular winemaking skills, by far one of the most adventurer enologist that I ever met from Tuscany south. Using French Oak barriques, his blends are from Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Cilegiolo and Merlot grapes.

By the way, the D.O.C.G laws in Umbria allows these hierarchy wines to use any international grape varietal in the blend, by only 15%. Marco Caprai explained that his Merlot vines have been planted in his property since early 1920. Remember the movie. "My house in Umbria", and a bottle of his wines; you really want to take the Alitalia flight now (but run through the winery first!) You'll fall in love with his wines as I did.........look for his Sagrantino de Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso, or 25 Anni,(an I.G.T denomination) (25 anniversary of the winery) and you'll find out that what you pay for its worth. Few notes; Deep ruby red wines, brilliant color, scent of all spice and vanilla hints, somewhat floral, rounder tannin, cocoa and berry jam flavors, figs, dates, with the elegance and length of a Cru wine, a muscular wine relentless in your palate!!

If you don't live in Florida, as they are not sold here in my home state, get a bottle. Not even in your wildest dreams you'll get quality wines at that price! The region that has being making wine for more than 3.000 years today has an innovator and his name is Marco Caprai, for him tradition doesn't apply, only good palates as yours!

P.S. For the ones that love old time movies, The Secret of Santa Christina was based in Assisi and Montefalco towns. Anthony Quinn, was playing the mayor of the town; trying to hide the secret; the wines of Montefalco....


Salud!!

Last week I turned 31. Not a number that conjures up grand parties or great reflection, but for me it was a day of simple pleasures and lead to a wine discovery this week. On January 21st I was invited to see the Golden State Warriors with 3 good friends. I am an avid Warrior fan and to get the chance to sit two rows off the floor on my birthday was not something I could pass up. The four of us met up in the parking lot pre-game for a little wine geek tailgate: A bottle of Bollinger Champagne and a bottle of Italian rose that I cannot remember at the moment. This is the way everyone should do the pre-game. Before we went into the arena JD, one of my pals and owner of a very small wine importer/distributor gave me a bottle of Catina Tollo Pecorino, and no it is not bottled cheese. A put the bottle in my trunk and off to the game we went. The Warriors lost by one point with one second left, tough loss.

Fast forward to this past Wednesday (1/30/2008) night. On a very rainy night I decided I wanted to have a quick, easy and healthy meal and above all I really needed a glass of wine. One of the easiest meals I found is broiled salmon. It takes all of 10 minuets from start to finish and is really good. I picked up a fillet of wild Coho Salmon, a Pomelo, and some kale. I sauteed the Kale in a bit of olive oil and veggie stock and let that cook until it is tender but not mushy. I place the salmon fillet on a broiling pan and rub it with cracked pepper, sea salt and a little olive oil. I put it under the broiler for about 5 minuets and then I sprinkle about 2 teaspoons of Pomelo zest onto the fish and let it finish. I like my salmon medium rare so it is a bit pink in the middle. Once I bring the salmon out and plate it, I squeeze a little Pomelo juice on it and I eat!

Now that the stage is properly set, here is the discovery from my 31st birthday! As I check out the wine in my fridge I wanted something yummy and saw the Pecorino (again, not the cheese). I had tasted it before and liked and thought it would compliment the Pomelo aspect of the dish. I opened the bottle and poured a glass for my wife and myself. This wine is golden in color and a tad viscous. At first the wine was too cold (something to watch for in white wines. When a wine is too cold the aromatic and flavors can be subdued until the wine reaches the proper temperature) so I just swirled it around to try to warm it up a bit. After a few bites of my dinner, which was quite tasty, the wine started to show. Shauna was the first to comment on it. She looked up at me and said, "Wow, this wine is really pretty." I took a whiff, a sip, sat back and let my troubles slip away as tropical aromas, citrus aromas, orange blossom and wild herbs enveloped me. This was not only a great wine but also a pairing between food and wine that make the proverbial light bulb explode. As we progressed through dinner we just kept shaking our heads at how great the wine was and how happy our day was coming to a close. Though it was cold, dark and rainy that night and we live in a very small apartment our simple dinner was brightened by an amazing wine.

After dinner I decided that I must share this obscure wine with as many people as I can. So I call JD and asked how much of the wine he has in his inventory and he said 12 bottles...that is not enough. He and I decided that we needed to place an order with the winery and in late April Andronico's Market will have Percorino wine as well as cheese! I will do some more research this week about the grape but just know it is AWESOME!

Cheers!

We can now breathe a sigh of relief. The 2006 Texas Sommelier Conference is over (www.texsom.com). As we exhale we can look back on our second annual event and be happy with the results. The event takes place on a Sunday and Monday...

On Sunday we have a Sommelier competition. We gather 25 of the most promising wine professional from around the state of Texas and examine them. We begin with a 50-question theory exam, asking about such topics as Edelrieflese. Then, the candidates are off to blind taste four wines and a run through a three-table mock service exam.

During this exam we have seminars, open to the public, from some of the country's leading wine experts on diverse topics: Nebbiolo, Burgundy, Spain, South America and Washington. This year, in each seminar we tasted 12 wines. Yes, 12 Nebbiolo-based wines at 9am. On Monday we offer classes and panel discussions for the trade. The event culminates on Monday evening with a Grand Tasting where we announce the winner of the TV Munson trophy, 'Texas' Best Sommelier.'

This year it was an Austin sweep: first, second and third place went to the crew from Austin. The excitement was palpable and it made it worth all of the hard work. Now that we have breathed our sigh of relief, we start planning for next year.

Last weekend I worked as a guest sommelier at the Central Coast Wine Classic- the illustrious and super-fun event founded by gentleman and wine collector legend, Archie McLaren. As always, the event was low on pretense and high on quality...

On one of our nights off, our group of sommeliers went to eat at a brand new restaurant in Pismo Beach called Lido. Most of us agreed; it was great.Lido is located in the new Dolphin Bay Hotel and Residence on Shell Beach Road.

The restaurant is swank and the night we were there (Friday) the place was full and exuded a happy energy. The bartender had a tall order to fill with ten sommeliers bellying up to his bar- we were tired of wine but thirsty as hell. The Martinis, Negronis, Sidecars and more that I watched him mix with a smile all looked perfect and refreshing. Already I was impressed. But later, when we were seated, and ready to order wine, I became aware that our server, David, was really, really good. Again, we were a loud and big group. The restaurant was full. David took very good care of us.
A lot of libations (even for sommeliers) requires a lot of food. So we ordered, and ordered, and ordered. The menu at Lido makes you want to order a lot. Everything sounds delicious and the menu format enables you to order everything in a small or large size. Therefore, you can get three or four exciting dishes without feeling like you have to commit to one main course. It is not as casual as it sounds. The food at Lido is carefully crafted by expert Chef Evan Treadwell and his team. This is fine dining, but the beach outside makes it feel fun. The menu design really worked for our large group and we agreed that the quality of the food was superior. Overall, we were thrilled, because most years we find ourselves with burgers and Bloody Marys. Lido was a big step up for us. It is a great, new restaurant in the Central Coast and well worth a visit next time you are in the beautiful Pismo Beach area.

Lido Restaurant 2727 Shell Beach Road, Pismo Beach, CA 93449 #805-556-3982

Grappa is a grape pomace based distilled spirit. Originally from northern Italy, grappa was first created in northern Italy near the Alps around the 14th century. Following the harvest, winemakers would collect the pomace (the partially fermented by–product of wine making remains such as skins, stem, seeds) and sell them to distillers. The distillers would then...

boil pomace in small copper alembics pot stills creating a potent vapor in the intense heat. As the vapors cooled in the copper coils, it condensed, becoming a crystalline, fragrant and high in alcohol (50-60%) liquid called grappa.

The local peasant population that farmed the countryside believed grappa had extraordinary benefits including mood altering effects, heating fuel, a vitamin supplement, and even a cure for impotence. They then began to add flavoring agents such as honey, flowers, and herbs to minimize the oily harsh flavors of grappa.

In the 1970's through the 1980's, global demand created innovation in the world of grappa production. Grappa had a ruff and tuff image only made for the brave. The Nonino family had been distilling grappa in Percoto Udine, Friuli since 1897. They pioneered the single variety grappa production. Prior to this time grappa was primarily made from multiple varieties blended together prior to distillation. Benito Nonino believed the single variety distillation would create a smoother grappa. Their inaugural variety began with Picolit, a local variety known for its delicacy and association with dessert wines.

Benito Nonino began with a 10-gallon batch and found small bottles in a chemical store to bottle his grappa. Hence the small bottle packaging; a trend which remains. Today many other single variety grappas are made in Italy including merlot, cabernet sauvignon, nebbiolo, riesling, moscato, tocai, malvasia and others.

In 1984 the Nonino family created a new style of grappa called Ue (oo-ay). This grappa is made from whole grape clusters from a single variety and a single vineyard. These grappas show concentrated aromas and flavors providing a smoother beverage.

Finally, most grappas range between 40%-45% alcohol. The best ones are made from single grape varietals grown on single estates. They can be matured in wood barrels and infused with flavorings such as commomile, anise, mint and cloves just to name a few ingredients. In Italy grappa is consumed individually, in cocktails, and mixed espresso.

Grappa is best served in a small stemware, with a narrow bowl to capture the fine and delicate aromas that emit quickly when poured.

The other evening I opened a bottle of bubbly to drink with friends. It was Champagne, from a small, reputable producer named Duval-Leroy. The wine was delicious - fresh, appley, hints of brioche. On the front label, the wine said, Blanc de Chardonnay...

My friend, a chef and quite knowledgeable about wine, said, "Blanc de Chardonnay? I've never seen that on a bottle of Champagne before." I realized that I, too, had never seen that on a bottle of Champagne. I surmised that Duval-Leroy just wanted to be more specific on the label than as to write Blanc de Blancs. (Blanc de Blancs means "the white of the whites" and is a style of Champagne that is produced with the noble chardonnay grape only, while many other styles are made with a blend of red & white grapes- pinot noir, pinot meunier, and chardonnay). There exist many Prestige Cuvees that are made entirely from chardonnay and are labeled Blanc de Blancs. Champagne Salon, who makes wine only in the best vintages, is a Blanc de Blancs. Champagne Taittinger's top wine- the vintage only Comtes de Champagne, is also a Blanc de Blancs. There are many others, and not all are vintage cuvees.

Still, I am curious about Duval-Leroy's decision to change the name of the style of the wine and to put the grape variety on the label. It might not seem like a big change, but in Champagne, one of the most historic and fabled of the world's great wine regions, this is a transformation.

My exposure to South African wines has been somewhat limited. Aside from some very delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, my exposure has usually consisted of overripe, yet somewhat dilute "Steen", and overcropped, poorly made Pinotage. On a recent trip to South Africa to attend Cape Wine 2006, I was drawn a very clear and altogether different picture of the newfound identity of South African wines...

Passion and creativity are the driving forces of the wine industry in SA right now, and with more appropriate varietals being planted, and more modern viticulture and vinification techniques being used, the shift into world-class production is apparent. But, the South Africans, being so culturally diverse, would like to be recognized for producing wines that cannot be compared to anything – wines that are uniquely South African. Wines that are not trying to emulate other regions. This was so exciting, and I do hope that the US will begin to see more of these unique wines, but for now, they are either consumed in SA, or shipped to the most demanding markets, the UK and the Netherlands.

Though regional differences were still hard for me to identify, I did get a clear picture of the flavor profiles of the most widely planted varietals, when in the hands of capable producers.

A dinner at the Meerendal Estate in Durbanville, convinced me that this was the hot spot for Sauvignon Blanc. Not grassy and lean like Sancerre, and not green bean like and tropical like New Zealand- this style falls somewhere in between with more grapefruit, quince and green fig aromas and tangy, natural acidity.

What about Pinotage? The South Africans are convinced that this intriguing cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault is part of their unique identity... Even though many have given up on the marketability of this varietal to other world markets, there are still some hanger's on….probably the ones who invented the concept of the "Cape Blend" which must be at least 70% Pinotage, the rest of the blend can be anything, but is usually Bordeaux varietals. In my opinion, the best blended wines of the world have come from grapes of close parentage. I quite like Pinotage on it's own, and had the rare opportunity to taste Pinotage from older vineyards, with naturally lower crop yields-a Pinotage from 50 yr. old vines at the Meerendal Wine Farm in the cooler region of Durbanville, was intense and exotic on the nose, and richly fruited on the palate.

A newcomer on the scene, Syrah, is showing tremendous potential in the warmer climes of Robertson and Stellenbosch, and plantings are on the rise. The wines have that piquant peppery quality that we all love about Syrah, but also have intriguing aromas of pomegranate, plum & tobacco- quite unlike styles found in Australia or California.

And Chenin Blanc, known locally as Steen, has had glorious success in the hands of the right producers. Though there is still a lot of bulk blending for cheap supermarket wines, the great producers have lowered yields and are making delightfully fresh Chenin's reminiscent of golden delicious apple and honey.

For many, the jury is still out on the overall quality of SA wines, but I believe that as vineyards become more mature (60% of SA vineyards are between 6-10 yrs of age), and as better sites for certain varietals are identified, we will see the continual improvement, and SA will be recognized by many more aficionados for it's world-class wines.

Here are just a few of my favorite wines from this trip:

Sauvignon Blanc Bloemendal 2004 Durbanville:
From a 300 yr old farm with the Tygerberg Hills as the backdrop, this
Durbanville estate produces intensely flavored Sauvignon with flavors of green fig,nettle & asparagus – one of the best SB’s I tasted.

Buitenverwachting "Christine" 2001 Constantia:
A beautifully structured ,classic SA Bordeaux blend. The name of the estate means "Beyond expectations"- the close proximity to False Bay, ensures a long, cool growing season. "Christine" is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot.

Stark-Conde Wines "Conde" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Stellenbosch:
More of a new world style, full of rich, ripe Cabernet Fruit and generously oaked. This is a small family-run winery, with less than 3,000 case production.

Springfield Estate "Life from Stone" Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Robertson:
Another spectacular Sauvignon Blanc. Similar to a Pouilly-Fume, but with SA ripeness- very, flinty and stoney on the nose- with lots of Pomelo and kaffir lime fruit on the palate- the finish is a little smoky too. This estate is also family-run with meticulous hands on methods, everything is fermented using natural yeast and the wines are bottled unfiltered. Unfortunately, they have no US importer just yet, but hopefully that will change!

Raka "Biography" Shiraz 2004 Caledon:
Soon to be imported into the US, these wines are bursting with flavor-
Raka is named for the proprietors fishing vessel. After many years at sea, Piet Dreyer decided to try his hand at winemaking, and has had very promising results. The Shiraz has an intense purplish color, with white pepper and Damson plum nose Rich fruit on the palate and silky ripe tannins.

Ken Forrester "FMC" Chenin Blanc 2005 Stellenbosch:
From the Icon range, or Ken's top of the line, this an outstanding Chenin Blanc from 40 yr old vineyards. A beautiful, bright gold color with an intense nose of apple,Pear, vanilla and hazelnut, great; length and acidity- a very serious style that should be consumed with food.

If imitation is the highest form of flattery, then I recently paid the highest tribute to Burgundy winemaker and icon Jacques Seysses at a dinner party here in Washington for friends of the American Institute of Wine and Food...

The occasion was an annual ritual local AIWF maven LaVerne Yost initiated a few years back to find a means of enjoying all the marvelous oversized bottles of wine she had collected over the years at auctions and fundraisers, and as gifts from appreciative winemakers both here and abroad. Living in an empty nest as she does, it simply was not practical for LaVerne to open and enjoy these treasures on a whim, and so she arranged for locally and nationally acclaimed chefs to come to her home and cook marvelous meals for her and her friends. I was fortunate to be invited to one such event last Fall, and the centerpiece of the dinner that night was an Impériale, or six-liter bottle of 1988 Opus One.
But I get ahead of myself. Several years earlier, I had been along for the ride on a wine sojourn to France with a group of 15 or so Washington area chefs and wine pros. On our pass through Burgundy, we were invited for a visit and tasting in the cellars of the renowned Morey-St.-Denis producer Domaine Dujac. This is a small domaine, entirely family-owned and operated by two generations of Seysses since its inception in 1967. Jacques had done an apprenticeship at the legendary Clos de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay, and after two or so years there had begun seeking out vineyards and property with his friend Aubert de Villaine, Director of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Within a few very short years of the Dujac’s beginnings, the wines of this property were routinely being hailed as among the most detailed and elegant of all of Burgundy. So it was no small accomplishment for our group to have secured an invitation to tour and taste with Jacques himself, and he proved most generous with his time and his cellar.
To top it all off, Monsieur Seysses invited us to be his guests for luncheon at an elegant restaurant in the village of Morey, and as we entered a small private dining room in the establishment that afternoon, we were greeted by the magnificent sight of a rehoboam of the 1978 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru; four-and-a-half liters of Burgundian elixir! Well, as the meal progressed, I can only vaguely remember the food, as excellent as it was, for I was much more intent upon the increasingly refined parade of red wines marching to the table: Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru, Gevrey-Chambertin aux Combottes, Charmes-Chambertin, Bonnes Mares, and then that imposing behemoth of a rehoboam staring down at us from its perch on a table at one end of the room. How does one serve such a bottle in polite company, I had to wonder?
But I didn’t have long to wait. As the main course was being plated, Jacques stood to address the hushed and reverential room of sybarites. I noticed a coil of plastic hose in his right hand. He removed the foil from the great bottle, and easily extracted the oversized cork. He then unceremoniously knelt down on the floor beneath the wine, reaching up and forward with the length of hose, and slid one end into the neck of the bottle. I am incredulous. Like a furtive schoolboy on a dare, he began sucking on the hose, siphoning off a gentle stream of rosy Burgundy, which dribbled into a succession of decanters, posed at the ready nearby. Mission accomplished, and he never once hoisted the hulking bottle off the table! A hearty cheer erupted as course and wine are served.
Back in Washington, and nearly a decade later, I relish the chance to replicate the performance, this time before an audience of colleagues, friends, journalists, fellow travelers. The impériale of ’88 Opus stands regally on a stool to one end of the small dining room. There is much speculation about the size of it, and the rigors of service of a bottle so large, the wine’s current drinkability, and the like. I intend to play this for all it’s worth. I approach the bottle warily, eyeing it from several different directions, as the assembled crowd becomes aware of my concentration. I kneel below the stool, reaching below to pull out a coil of shiny plastic hose. “No!” gasps someone in the room. “You’re not…!”

Mission accomplished. Thanks, Jacques.

One of my greatest thrills as a Sommelier is turning people on to new and exciting wines with which they are not familiar. Customers at Babbo often develop a questioning look when I mention varietals such as Teroldego, Nerello Mascalese and Ribolla. I assure them that these wines are...

delicious and, after tasting, they smile and agree. Aglianico is my favorite of these question-eliciting varietals.

Most people do not know that Aglianico is one of Italy's three Noble Varietals (the other two being Nebbiolo and Sangiovese). Historians have traced the Aglianico grape's origins to Ancient Greece, where it was brought to southern Italy in pre-Roman times. In fact, it may have been the first grape introduced to Italy by the Greeks. It is debatable whether Aglianico was first brought to the region of Basilicata or Campania, but what is known is that the grapes have always thrived in volcanic soil at high altitudes. The mountainous regions of Campania's Taurasi zone and Basilicata's Aglianico del Vulture fit this profile perfectly and also allow for an extremely long growing season. While France typically harvests their red grapes in early September, Aglianico is often harvested in late October or early November. This allows the grapes to obtain optimal ripeness and, therefore, achieve remarkably dense, subtle, complex flavors.

Aglianico has often been called the Barolo of the south. Both wines do share some similarities such as high levels of tannin and acidity, late ripening and a raw personality full of character. There are many differences as well. While Nebbiolo (the varietal used in making Barolo and Barbaresco) is a lighter, brickish red, Aglianico is deep and dark. Nebbiolo's flavor profile leans towards red fruits and mushroomy earth while Aglianico's flavors are dark fruits, tobacco and minerals.

The most famous producer of Aglianico is Mastroberardino. Their wines from the 1960's and 1970's are still drinking beautifully. Unfortunately, the family split up the vineyards in recent years and different wine makers have been brought in. Some of my favorite producers of today are d'Angelo, Re Manfredi, Ocone, Caggiano, and Molettieri. The first three listed show off a more lean traditional side of winemaking showcasing the raw power of Aglianico. Molettieri uses more modern wine techniques and new oak to create a more polished product and Caggiano falls somewhere in between the two styles. The best part is that most of these wines are reasonably priced. If you can find them on a wine list do not pass up this new and exciting drinking experience.

Well after twenty years working in the fine dining world of NYC I am now working on the other side. I took a job with Southern Wine and Spirits. I will be essentially helping give excellent service to high profile restaurants (in other words I am selling wine). But as a training ground I have been given an open territory that is not those accounts but rather a collection of a variety of restaurants ranging from a private cigar club to a deli that sells wine. It has been quite an experience. It has ranged from someone hanging up on me to walking in and getting a $4,000. order by just my recommendations, no tasting of wine even. I am looking forward to getting rolling in my actual real job in January. It will be good (and frustrating I am sure) to help wine buyers with their programs. It feels good to be within my dear realm of wine and yet be doing something so different. So far so good. I think this is a positive move for me. I will keep you posted.

I am embarrassed to say that it has taken me months to get up to Healdsburg to dine at Cyrus. After all, it is one of the hottest new restaurants of 2005 and everyone from foodies to restaurant critics to winemakers is talking about it. And for good reason. Cyrus, located in the swank Hotel Les Mars, is a complete and incredible dining experience. If you haven't been, do yourself a favor and go. Cyrus succeeds in every way as a fine dining restaurant. From the decor and the ambiance, the gentle lighting and the flowers, to the beautiful bar and comprehensive cocktail & spirits program to the service staff and the food; everything is near perfect. I had one of the best meals of my life at Cyrus.

Chef Doug Keane is brilliant and has wisely surrounded himself with talanted help in the kitchen. Every dish that we had was harmonious and delicious, beautifully presented and perfectly portioned. Owner and Maitre d' Nick Peyton has assembled a terrific front of the house staff. Servers come and go gracefully, anticipating your needs but are never intrusive. I was very impressed by the knowledge, care and pride that the service staff showed while answering our questions and explaining the cuisine. And, like a proud camp counselor, I was thrilled to watch Wine Director Jason Alexander in action.

You see, Jason was my assistant sommelier for four years at Restaurant Gary Danko. We worked closely together and I am happy that today he is excelling at Cyrus. The wine list is incredible for such a young restaurant. Jason has sought out fine wines from local producers as well as rare and precious bottlings from around the world. The list is beautifully formated and elegant. Jason is a gracious sommelier. His wine knowledge is outstanding and his service is always timed perfectly. I suppose it did help that he knows my tastes; from the Champagne to the Riesling to the Burgundy, he didn't miss a beat. But I wouldn't expect any less from my formidable former assistant. Okay, I won't take all the credit... but I can be proud.

When a guest has asked me if a cult wine is really worth the price you have to pay for it I answer with a few different ideas. First of all...

it is supply and demand. Short enough supply combined with an audience who has plenty of money...well if they want to pay for it, it will be worth it to them. For me personally it would not be worth it. I would prefer to buy several bottles of wine rather than spring for one of the cult wines. But things are relative. I have splurged and spent $250.00 on a bottle of wine. The 1982 Gruaud-Larosse was so worth it to me. I still remember the thrill vividly. Would my sister have found it worth the money? Absolutely not. So each person has to answer that question for themselves. I do feel that often there is an "Emperor's New Clothes" phenomena in action. If someone ever wanted to invest in a cult wine and then blind taste it with other more moderately esteemed wines they could really find out the answer to that question. Sometimes people just feel the need to spend alot of money on a big name wine. It has to do with things that don't have much to do with what is in the bottle.

The good old boy's shopping list would be:

Nigl, Riesling, Privat, 2002
Domaine Jomain, Batard-Montrachet, 2002
Dr. Loosen, Urziger Wurzgarten, Spatlese, Riesling 1985
Krug, Clos de Mesnil, 1990
Salon, Le Mesnil, Blanc de Blanc, Mesnil Sur Oger 1995
Valdicava, Brunello de Montalcino, Riserva, Madonna del Piano, 1997
Giacomo Conterno, Barolo, Riserva, Monfortino 1990
Petrus, 1982
La Tache, Domaine de la Romanee Conti, 1988
Gunerdloch, Riesling, TBA, 2001

Thanks Santa!!!

As I get ready to leave for the Labor Day Week-end (the last one of the summer unofficially)I am looking at the line up of wine tastings that are coming up and it alternately sets my heart a flutter and fills me with dread. On one hand it is exciting to see everyone that you haven't seen in a while and it is great to get to taste all of the wines, on the other hand...tasting hundreds of wines does take the wind out of one's sails in terms of your day to day work in the restaurant. Fortunately we are trained professionals and will buck up, have an espresso or two and get back to work. Oh yeah tasting all of that wine is part of our work. How lucky are we?

This Friday and Saturday morning at 7 am I will be joining a group of sommeliers from across the US to taste and decant wines for the Wine Spectator's Wine Experience. We will assemble both mornings to begin the task of opening, tasting and decanting the hundreds of wines that will be featured for the various seminars. It is a chance for us to taste wines that we might not be able to taste in our day to day lives. Penfolds Grange 1990, Pichon-Longueville 1989, d'Quem 1987, Lafite 1988, Haut Brion 1990...It is fun to see wine friends that you only see at events like these and of course tasting the wines is the reward for when the alarm rings at 6 am and I have to get up while it's still dark outside. I will report the tasting highlights next week.

I hope that you didn't let the summer pass by without sipping on some lovely white wines from Greece. Well, it certainly is not too late. One of the oldest wine growing regions on the planet, Greece offers a wonderful array of wines. Interstingly, 75-80% of Greece's total wine production is white. And they come in many different styles. It is fun to look for and to taste the wide variety of Greek whites that are finally ending up on our retail shelves in the United States. More and more of these exciting wines are available all the time.

My personal favorite is Moscophilero from Mantinia. This slightly pink-skinned grape renders highly aromatic, intensely flavored whites and roses. It can be light to medium bodied and dry with characteristics of peach, honeysuckle, and citrus. It aways has bight acidity and and a long, crisp finish. It is a wonderful change of pace as far as whites go. I love putting a glass of Moscophilero in front of someone who has never tasted it before. Their eyes always light up at the first sniff. Moscophilero is a real pleaser and an exciting change.

Other exciting dry whites from Greece include Assyrtico from the island of Santorini, Roditis from Patras, and Robola from Cephalonia. There are also luscious sweet wines made from Muscat of Patras and Muscat of Samos. They can be harder to find than the dry whites, but determination and a good wine merchant can help. A votre sante!

When attending a large portfolio tasting there are usually several stand out wines, wines that make the whole experience worth while. At the recent Wildman tasting in NYC there were some head turning wines. One of them was La Stoppa Ageno Bianco 2003. I was familiar with La Stoppa, although not extremely. This particular wine I had never tasted. It is trebbiano and malvasia. Wow. It is supremely aromatic, woodsy and exotic. Balanced. Other than a Valentini Trebbiano, like nothing I had ever tasted. It was a head turner, stopped me in my tracks wine. I quickly thought of Paul Greico, who loves these types of wines. The satisfying, funny thing is...when I ran into Paul an hour later I said "Paul you have to go over and taste the La Stoppa..." he finished my sentence "Ageno Bianco". He was all over that wine already. It is a wine lovers wine for certain. Try it out.

This week has been a tasting extravaganza! I attended 3 of NYC's largest distributors fall tastings this week and a Wines of Germany tasting. Thousands of wines to choose from. It is important to be in the right frame of mind when attending these; that is not always possible. Some are so crowded that when I walk in it makes me want to "pull the covers over my head"; but I just take a deep breath and push on. I like to look through the book and strategize the wines that I definitely want to taste. Coming up with a game plan is key. It is also a time to see your fellow wine friends, so there is definitely a social element to these tastings. Focus is the goal.
After a week like this, one is reminded about how many excellent wines there are in the market today and just how much the world of wine has expanded in the last 15 years. What is it that really makes a wine stand out? What makes a wine highly sought after? This is a complex set of circumstances and marketing is part of it. For me I definitely respond in a visceral way to wines that speak of the place where they are from. It is a highly competive market, a true embarassment of riches. That is a good thing for we wine lovers.

The wine I took for the Sommelier Challenge, Quintarelli's 1987 Alzero made it to the second round before being dropped. It showed beautifully! But I think my favorite wine of the night (if there can be such a thing in such company) was Dujac's 1976 Clos de la Roche. It gave me goosebumps and made the hairs on my arm stand up. One sniff, one taste and I will remember it for years to come. That is when the genie floats out of the bottle. That treat was generously shared by Ms.S.Dore. Thank-you!

The most cutting edge producer making some of the most interesting wines today is Nicolas Joly. Go out now, quickly, and buy any of his Chenin Blancs from the AOC of Savennieres in the Loire. He’s not that new to the scene since taking the reigns from his mother a couple of decades ago, but his wines are super distinctive and balanced. That's a rare positive duo of adjectives, to be way sure...

Plenty of distinctive wines from talented winemakers from all over the world fill wine list real estate, yet these wines often tip the scale toward high extraction, big alcohol, and/or overly ambitious new barrel aging. A lot of big, pure fruit in a bottle. I sheepishly admit that they can be satisfyingly fun to drink along with the right food.

If you’re familiar with Nicolas Joly you’re first thought might be, “He’s the pioneer of modern biodynamic wine. Freaky stuff.” Yes, biodynamic farming is foreign to most with its incorporation of vineyard and winery practices in bed with organic farming, astrology, post-scientific theory, mysticism and God, goddess, god and/or Goddess, among other celestial factors. I tend to lean toward the dogma of my atheist boyfriend/partner. Yet I’m not at all critical of what Nicolas Joly thinks and practices as long as he produces his beautiful, rich, balanced, spot-on beautifully oxidative, complex and balanced wines.

What’s my point? There are two.
1. The most cutting edge producer today is Nicolas Joly.
2. Set aside your religion and all other weighty matters at the forefront of your conscious and subconscious before you determine if you like a wine.

A brief trip to California, to do some consulting on the Sonoma Coast, is what brought Mounir into Jack Falstaff, one of the PlumpJack restaurants where I occasionally work the floor as sommelier. Mounir Saouma, founder of the Beaune-based "micro- negociant" firm Lucien Lemoine, came in to have dinner with his importer, George Derbalian of Atherton Imports. With him, came several 2002 and 2003 white and red Burgundies "raised" by Mounir and his Israeli girlfriend Rotem. There were some stunning wines.

Mounir was born in Lebanon, and in his early years took the opportunity to leave Lebanon to work with his uncle in a Cistercian monastery in Israel . It was here that he learned to make wine. It was here, as well, that he met his girlfriend and partner in the firm, Rotem. Mounir was bit by the bug, and moved to Burgundy to study oenology at Montpellier. Rotem was soon to follow.

After working for a large negociant firm, Mounir decided to start his own negociant firm, but at a much smaller, more focused level - there are not more than 75 cases of any one wine sold under the Lucien Lemoine label - "Lemoine" signifying his nickname "the monk" fondly given to him by French vignerons.

The entire production is purchased as wine from undisclosed sources(said to be top domaines), except for the whites which are purchased as must. It is the job of Mounir and Rotem to act as the eleveurs for over twenty different wines, mostly from premier and grand cru vineyards. They purchase their own barrels to mature the wines on their lees for extended periods of time, with lots of lees stirring. The methods are artisanal, and nothing but oxygen is used to stabilize the wines. There are only trace amounts of SO2. As Mounir put it best, he likes to be able to drink an entire bottle of his wine without any side effects. The wines are always bottled unfined and unfiltered. Due to high levels of Carbon Dioxide, the younger wines should be decanted before serving.

The wines are intense, powerful and beautifully structured. Mounir is a warm and generous man, willing to share his knowledge and passion with all. I found it difficult to "critique" these wines in the company of Mounir and George, but there were some "stand-outs" like the 2002 Bonnes-Mares with a core of sweetness & concentration and the tight-knit Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru "Chenevottes" displaying gorgeous mineral and herbal aromas- soon to be a great wine. All of the wines are great, and are certainly capturing the attention of Burgundy lover's and critics worldwide.

I am the Sommelier at Le Cirque, in Las Vegas, and we offer a few selections with Stelvin screwcaps. The ones we offer are from Germany and Nez Zealand. It is interesting to note that some guests...

take note of this closure while others when presented with the "screwcap" vs. the traditional cork, may not even realize it or pay much attention to it. I allude this to either being unaware of our industry's technological advances and the reasons, and or the fact that they are moderate wine drinkers and it does not matter much to them. The more sofisticated drinkers realize what is happening and dont pay much attention to it. Regardless, their preferences more than likely contain the crok closure.

Regarding service of these wines, we do not state on our wine list the closure types. We do however (sommeliers) explain to the guests when opening the bottle 3 key things: (1) this particular selection iis sealed with a screwcap. We do this in case the guest has a particular dislike for stelvins screwcaps. If this is the case the guest has an opportunity to change their selection. (2) One small drawback to stelvins is the perforation of the metal cap. So we explain this to the guest to prevent a cut. (3) Finally, stelvins do no offer any benefit once the bottle is open, their work is done and as opposed to the tradional cork it has no merit. As a sommelier I always ask if I may remove the stelvin from the table. I have yet to see someone request to keep it which is different from corks which often time serve as a souvenire. Que interesante!!!

I have been wondering what the long term effects of screwcaps are, as I am sure many of you have. Last week at the Sommelier Summit, sponsored by Icon Estates, we did a blind tasting of 4 wines. One was a regular cork, one was a screwcap, one was a screwcap that was a little permeable and the fourth was the glass cap that they are starting to use in Germany and Austria. While the cork edged out the other wines in taste, the permeable screw cap was a very close second and I have to admit for the ability to avoid cork taint I definitely advocate the use of these new and improved screwcaps for the right type of wines. It was very interesting. The least tasty of the four was the plain airtight screwcap closure.

Twenty years after the Austrian Wine Scandal, a grape helps a country re-assert itself...

Artificial sweeteners come in blue, pink, and now yellow packets. In 1985, however, they also came in the form of diethylene glycol, and a handful of winemakers in Austria resorted to using this popular anti-freeze agent to sweeten up their low-end wines. In Italy, where a far more dangerous ethylene glycol was used for the same purpose, almost two-dozen people died as a result of the practice. None did in Austria, but the damage was already done. Without Italy's tourism industry machinery to prop it back up, Austria's wine export market all but disappeared.

A silver lining was to be found, however, because regulations regarding production and quality in Austria are now the strictest on the continent. The damage has been controlled and then some. Nowadays, the restaurant or wine shop that does not have an Austrian wine or two available is clearly missing out.

The argument can be made that the best grape grown in Austria is Riesling. That's as may be, but arguments are much more fun when they aren't so easy or obvious. No, I say the most intriguing grape in Austria is its most widely grown one – Grüner Veltliner. Although found in Czechoslovakia as well, it is widely considered a uniquely Austrian grape. Its appeal is clear – dry, peppery, a touch spicy with perhaps flavors of honey and citrus. Although it is found all over Austria, the loess and loam soils of Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal seem to be its happiest home. In fact, I have tasted some older bottles from these regions and find that Grüner Veltliner ages beautifully.

Let's get back to the regulations for just a minute. A new system for classifying the sugar levels was developed. Not willing to borrow the German Ochsle or French Beaume systems, Austria came up with its very own: Klosterneuburger Mostwaage (KMV). Mostwaage simply means 'must scale' and that is the basis for the measurement. (To give you an idea of the scale, a 17.1 KMZ would be 84 Ochsle and 11.2 Beaume.)
A good introduction to Gru Vees would be a nice Federspiel (minimum 17 KMW and no more that 11.9 percent alcohol) from any of the three regions mentioned above. I recommend the Domaine Wachau 'Terrassen', which is what I pour by the glass here at Aujourd'hui. If you are inclined to fuller flavors and rounder bodies, a Smaragd has a minimum of 18 KMW and must have at least 12 percent alcohol. A fine example of a Smaragd is the Prager 'Weitenberg'.

Gru Vees shine at their brightest when it comes to food pairing. Notoriously problematic vegetables such as asparagus and artichokes are quite compatible with the balanced fruit, acidity and spiciness of the wine. In addition, since it is clear that Gru Vee has a decided Alsatian quality to it, try it with spicier Asian foods and you will see how a wine doesn’t need to be huge to match bold flavors – it simply needs to be focused, and focus is a by-product of balance.

I try to avoid the 'T word' like the plague, but one positive trend in the world of wine today is the recognition of the marvelous grape called Gruner Veltliner.

Years ago when I was fairly new to the world of wine someone asked me if I would ever use synthetic corks (let alone screw caps)...Never! I replied. Well of course now I use them happily and completely endorse their usage. It makes such sense. Why shouldn't the producers make a closure that helps save them loss due to cork taint not to mention a cap that is easier to get off for a person who buys a bottle at the store? I am a traditionalist at heart and admit to being attached to the ceremony of opening a bottle of wine, but for the right wine a screw cap is aok.
Lesson re-learned: Never say never.

Having once more survived two grueling weeks of Restaurant Week in New York City I am amazed to see such a change in the sales and change in the variety of wine! Restaurant week, now two weeks in fact, is a celebration in New York that offers diners the opportunity to sample food from many of the top restaurants. With lunch at $20.05 for 3 courses and dinner at 35.05 it really is a temptation!

Ten years ago one would serve a sea of iced tea and water across the dining room. These past few years I have seen a dramatic rise in wine sales, especially concerning esoteric and interesting wines. The number of people in their twenties that now take advantage of restaurant week has risen dramatically. I delight in this because these youngsters are more sophisticated than one would imagine and have no qualms about asking questions or being open to the idea that someone is there, without charge, to assist them in selecting a glass or bottle of wine. Many diners carry a great deal of baggage when it comes to trusting a Sommelier in a restaurant. On occasion I empathize!

There is always a page on my wine list that features wines that are good value. This year there were crisp Italian whites, Greek wine from Manti