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December 08, 2008

Domaine Weinbach
Jesse Becker Posted by: Jesse Becker
Category: Wine GPS: wine travel
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Schlossberg.jpg
Alsace's first (and best?) classified vineyard, the Grand Cru Schlossberg.

Domaine Weinbach is the finest domaine in Alsace. There, I've said it. Nowhere else in this world class wine region, will you find a domaine with better vineyards, farmed as immaculately (and with biodynamics), and with a better team, than at the Domaine Weinbach of Colette, Cathérine and Laurence Faller. Established by the Capuchin monks in 1612, the domaine was eventually acquired by the brothers Faller who in turn left the estate to their son and nephew, Théo. Théo Faller became a prominent figure in Alsace, defending the ideas of quality wine production, perhaps during times where quantity over quality prevailed in the market for Alsatian wines. Today the domaine owns 28 ha., is centered near the village of Kayserberg, and is headed by Théo's widow, Colette and her daughters Cathérine and Laurence. Laurence has served as the domaine's winemaker since 1992 while Cathérine handles the commercial aspects of the business.

Domaine Weinbach Clos.jpg
Weinbach's monopole of Clos des Capucins.

The vineyards of Domaine Weinbach read like a listing of the finest terroirs in the region. Their famous monopole vineyard of Clos des Capucins is surprisingly flat with sandy silt over pebbles, and is the source of a very fine Riesling as well as the Cuvée Théo Gewurztraminer. The Grand Cru of Furstentum on brown calcareous sandstone, produces Weinbach's more elegant Gewurztraminer, while the Grand Cru Mambourg tends to be better suited to the late harvest styles. The Grand Cru of Marckrain gives yet another Gewurztraminer, this time from limestone and marl, while the Altenbourg, located just underneath the Furstentum vineyard, gives rich and intense Pinot Gris and Gewurtztraminer from limestone, sand and clay.

Catherine and Armin.jpg
The next generation: Cathérine skilfully conducts our tasting while simultaneously babysitting her energetic nephew, the young Armin Faller.

All of these wonderful wines eventually lead you to the outstanding Rieslings from the Grand Cru Schlossberg, which also carries the distinction of being the first Grand Cru to be classified as such in the Grand Cru decree of 1975, and was no less renowned going as far back as documents dating from the 15th century. In addition to the "basic" Schlossberg Riesling, the vineyard gives us the Cuvée Sainte Catherine (from late picked grapes), as well as the Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Sainte Catherine "l'Inédit, an exceptionally rich bottling from the Schlossberg hill.

Weinbach bottles.jpg
Just three of the many bottles tasted at the Domaine Weinbach, November 2008.

With the entire range tasted there was little left to do but to enjoy the wines at home with a round of Munster both of which were generously provided by Madame Faller. This was the standout domaine in during our tour of Alsace.

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