Q: How have Americans reacted to the news of the scandal, adulterated Brunello, and Brunello that does not meet appellation requirements?
A: Honestly, that is a difficult question. Brunello collectors make up about 3% of the wine buyers in the US and in that circle there is a reaction. They don't know what to make of it yet. I believe that because there are 99s, 00s, 01s and a few 02s available, nobody is worried yet. People think that it is an Italian soap opera between Feder Comercio, magistratura de Siena against it Produttori del Brunello.
Q: Considering that the U.S. is the top foreign market for Brunello and that it absorbs roughly 24% of total production, what was the initial reaction and how have the attitudes of American winelovers changed? What reaction have you seen from Tuscan wine and Brunello enthusiasts, wine professionals, importers, distributors, retailers, and restaurateurs?
A: The most influential wine writers and bloggers are writing about it. I don't see Tuscan wines losing market share yet, perhaps. It is an Italian scandal. The big soap opera is about more than grapes and adulteration. It is a much deeper argument between power institutions, the FederComercio from Rome, the Siena government against the Montalcinese.
Q: How does the rest of the winemaking world now view Montalcino? In your opinion, have Brunello producers and the Consortium been sufficiently transparent? Or has their approach lacked transparency?
A: I personally know la Cupula from the Consortium. I don't see a lack of transparency. The wineries involved will come out; you cannot blame all the Montalcino producers for what a few have done. If there is adulteration, we will find out soon. They have just create a new quality control commission.
Q: Do you find it paradoxical and in a certain way comic that certain Montalcino producers have adulterated their wines by adding grapes like Merlot and Cabernet in order to make the wines more appealing to a certain group of consumers and to certain member of influential American wine writers and now the United States has, so to speak, "handed them the bill" by demanding they reveal the names of the wineries under investigation and by demanding proof that the Brunello being imported contain only Sangiovese? Wouldn't it have been simpler and more honest to send the U.S. Brunello made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, as many producers did, wines above suspicion?
A: To change grapes or blends, not respecting the DOCG laws and to make wines more appealing to certain writers is wrong. I am sure the TTB will get the names and then we'll know who did what. (if its aplicable, fines are up ) The Italian press has made this a big deal.
Q: On the subject of the U.S. market and American winelovers: is it true that Americans want wines more "international" in style, wines easier to approach, with darker colors, more intense and concentrated fruit, and softer tannins? Or is the American consumer ready and willing to appreciate a wider range of wines and Brunello that is true to its own tradition, its own nature, and not just an imitation of New World wines?
A: Yes, you are right about the international style, many regions and countries are doing this already, Napa, Mendoza, Jumilla, Toro, Priorat, but for Montalcino, it is not the right move. It would be like putting a screw cap on a Biondi Santi Brunello. Tradition should stay, unless we change the Italian wine laws, that's a different animal. Brunello should be known for tipicity and heraldry paying homage to it's long existence and historic vineyards.
Q: Do you think that American lovers of Italian wines will be outraged if certain Brunello prove to have been made with grapes other than Sangiovese? Or will they be indifferent to a fraudulent blend of grapes? Is it true, as some have written, that the American market doesn't care whether Brunello is made with just Sangiovese grapes or with the addition of other grapes as long as it is good and appealing to the American palate?
A: This is true. The American consumer doesn't care and many don't know what grape should be in Brunello. Also consider the times. Americans have little time to worry about other countries' wine scandals when oil prices are skyrocketing, unemployment is increasing, it's an election year and one likely to be quite contentious. My opinion is the 2003 vintage might struggle,(or maybe de-classified) but Brunello will survive.
Q: Let's talk for a moment about the attitudes of the powerful American wine press and opinion leaders who help many consumers to choose what they will buy. In your opinion, have they been honest with their readers? Have they reward certain "strange" Brunellos because they liked them, because they appealed to their personal tastes, and because they found them to be "great" wines? Is it possible that they didn't know the wines did not meet appellation requirements and that they contained grapes other than Sangiovese?
A: Honestly, I don't know. Writers like Suckling, Parker, Tanzer talk about how their palates trace the oak flavors and textures, especially since the 1996 new wine laws, the change in oak, Slovenian versus French. With such great aging potential, I believe in the marriage of Slovenian oak and Sangioveto Grosso…maybe I am too old school. But I have to also admire the soft tannin texture of a silky Valdicava 1997 Madonna del Piano or some of the single vineyards from the Ombrone area in Montalcino.
Q: The ATTB has sent a letter to the Italian embassy in Washington threatening to block all U.S. imports of Brunello if the Italian government does not reveal the names of the wineries under investigation. If the names are not revealed by June 23, all producers will be required to provide proof that their wines are made with 100% Sangiovese grapes.
A: I have read that the ATTB authorities are on their way to Tuscany to meet with their Italian counterparts about stopping shipments. The new assembly of the 256 producers allowed the Consortium, through Mr. Paolo Capretti, to provide all the requisite information. So a political solution is already on the table.
Q: How do you think this situation will be resolved? Do you think that the American consumer will be satisfied with individual certification and guarantees or will a "political" solution be required, e.g., an amnesty or moratorium created for the sake of greater and more pressing financial issues, the common good, and for the many jobs that Montalcino risks losing because of the ongoing investigation? Could a white wash of the situation quietly conclude the scandal?
A: As I said, there will be a political solution. I cannot believe that some individuals were caught going to the Sienese prosecutor pointing fingers at the largest producers of Tuscan wine. It would be shooting themselves in the foot. How could they hurt their own people; 3000 contadini live off the land of Montalcino and it's Brunello. There has been a huge increase in Brunello sales, 78%. 4.5 million bottles were sold in 2007 and only 2.6 the year before; admittedly the 2002 vintage was not great.
Q: Is the U.S. consumer now confused by these political and financial situations? By the lack of transparency? Could we run the risk that American consumers fall out of love with Brunello and decide not to buy it anymore or to prefer other wines?
A: We are waiting for results. Someone from Castello Banfi told me last week that they are sold out of all the prior vintages now and that their sales will suffer if the 2003 vintage is not released soon. Once there is a solution, I don't think anything wil happen, unless there is a sense of guilt and proof of malfeasane. As you know, Mr Capretti, the new Chief Controling Operations officer, is there to start a quality revolution. No other group in Italy has shown the commitment to quality that the Consortium of Brunello does. We have to remember the first DOCG was granted to Brunello back in the 60's, always showing a commitment to lead the Italian Wine Trade. (Sorry for the Barolistas this time)
Q: How can Montalcino and the Brunello Consortium instill trust in the American consumer and safeguard the image of this great Tuscan and Italian wine? How can it save this legendary wine, a wine that Americans have helped to make one of the world's most famous in recent years?
will continue....have a painy woman behind meee...love you!
What do you foresee for Brunello's future and its relationship with the American consumer? In your opinion American wine enthusiast still loves Brunello and are ready to buy again, like in the past, this Italian wine
A: Reeducating the American consumer is what made lots of regions successful, in Spain, Jumilla, Priorat and Toro, and in Argentina Mendoza and Cafayate.These regions have enjoyed huge increases in the last 5 years. Also, launching a massive marketing/PR compaign would be useful. I believe Brunello goes to 59 countries now and the key is to go to these markets and settle the standards with the new rules and regulations. There is a bitter taste about all these scandals, but we should teach and spread the word that the region has great tradition. Whoever the whistleblower was didn't go to Siena with the intent of damaging the Italian wine trade.
Q: What do you foresee for Brunello's future and its relationship with the American consumer? In your opinion American wine enthusiast still loves Brunello and are ready to buy again, like in the past, this Italian wine.
A: Yes, they will continue to buy Brunello and it is the responsibility of the sommeliers to continue to support Brunello and the Consortium by helping to clear the air of this scandal. I was talking to 20 top sommeliers from the VinTrust group at the Napa wine auction and we all believe that Brunello can weather this storm and that Montalcino will be considered a great region. Brunello Sei Grande as the wine book says!
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