One of my greatest thrills as a Sommelier is turning people on to new and exciting wines with which they are not familiar. Customers at Babbo often develop a questioning look when I mention varietals such as Teroldego, Nerello Mascalese and Ribolla. I assure them that these wines are...

delicious and, after tasting, they smile and agree. Aglianico is my favorite of these question-eliciting varietals.

Most people do not know that Aglianico is one of Italy's three Noble Varietals (the other two being Nebbiolo and Sangiovese). Historians have traced the Aglianico grape's origins to Ancient Greece, where it was brought to southern Italy in pre-Roman times. In fact, it may have been the first grape introduced to Italy by the Greeks. It is debatable whether Aglianico was first brought to the region of Basilicata or Campania, but what is known is that the grapes have always thrived in volcanic soil at high altitudes. The mountainous regions of Campania's Taurasi zone and Basilicata's Aglianico del Vulture fit this profile perfectly and also allow for an extremely long growing season. While France typically harvests their red grapes in early September, Aglianico is often harvested in late October or early November. This allows the grapes to obtain optimal ripeness and, therefore, achieve remarkably dense, subtle, complex flavors.

Aglianico has often been called the Barolo of the south. Both wines do share some similarities such as high levels of tannin and acidity, late ripening and a raw personality full of character. There are many differences as well. While Nebbiolo (the varietal used in making Barolo and Barbaresco) is a lighter, brickish red, Aglianico is deep and dark. Nebbiolo's flavor profile leans towards red fruits and mushroomy earth while Aglianico's flavors are dark fruits, tobacco and minerals.

The most famous producer of Aglianico is Mastroberardino. Their wines from the 1960's and 1970's are still drinking beautifully. Unfortunately, the family split up the vineyards in recent years and different wine makers have been brought in. Some of my favorite producers of today are d'Angelo, Re Manfredi, Ocone, Caggiano, and Molettieri. The first three listed show off a more lean traditional side of winemaking showcasing the raw power of Aglianico. Molettieri uses more modern wine techniques and new oak to create a more polished product and Caggiano falls somewhere in between the two styles. The best part is that most of these wines are reasonably priced. If you can find them on a wine list do not pass up this new and exciting drinking experience.