Aubert de Villaine, proprietor of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, was on the west coast very briefly, talking about his California wine, Hyde de Villaine, and introducing the 2003 DRC's to the market. I was one of the very few fortunate persons to be invited to sit with him and taste through the DRC line-up.

2003 was an exceedingly warm vintage thoughout Europe, so I was particularly interested in tasting these wines - which can be so mercurial and misunderstood in their youth. The harvest was one of the earliest on record: beginning 22 August and completed by 1 September. Overall, there was a density of color and lower noticable acids. As Monsieur de Villaine eloquently noted, "The terroir now whispers but will speak louder as the years go by. The wines' capacity of aging is hidden in the lush tannins." As is customary when tasting...

Domaine de la Romanee Conti wines, the Montrachet is always kept for last. I think it is saving the best for last since I believe it to be one of the finest wine experiences in the world. In actuality, it has to do with the acids and nuances of flavor. A few tasting notes to savor...

2003 Echezeaux - Delicate aromas of raspberry, minerals, seafoam, game. Somewhat austere. Good grip of tannins with a medium-full body. Medium acid though wine appears juicy. Persistent length of stone minerals.

2003 Grands Echezeaux - Spicy aromas of cinammon, cloves and toast. Full-bodied with a great texture of big tannins, medium acid and a lovely length of red fruits, slate minerals. Medium mid-palate.

2003 Romanee St.-Vivant - Aromas of black licorice, smoke, cool earth and a whiff of alcohol. A lovely perfume of black cherry. Full-bodied with a great texture of full tannins and a dark fruited component. Medium length of red fruits. Very pretty and complex.

2003 Richebourg - Delicate perfume of red fruits with high notes of ripe red raspberry. An amazing core of fruit on the mid palate continues well into the persistent lenth - stone minerals, red berry. Perfectly balanced medium tannins, acid and fruit. World class.

2003 La Tache - The most reticent aromas of the line-up: coffee, chocolate, mocha. Medium weighted palate of fine, pervasive tannins, cocoa, red cherry fruit, medium, acid and medium length. This wine was quite closed off. Needs years.

2003 Romanee-Conti - Huge aromas of oak mingles with red raspberry and coffee. Medium-bodied palate of red bing cherry, mouthwateringly pleasant high acids, wet stone notes and a wonderful tecture. A truly hedonistic experience.

2003 Montrachet - Intense aromas of lemon, custard, wet stone, minerals. The full-bodied palate is big, ripe and unctuous with medium-high acid balancing this incredible drink. Lovely bright notes of hazelnuts, minerals, smoke, and lemon. Long persistent length studded with citrus and hazelnuts. If you can find it, get it. Now. Incredible.