I am embarrassed to say that it has taken me months to get up to Healdsburg to dine at Cyrus. After all, it is one of the hottest new restaurants of 2005 and everyone from foodies to restaurant critics to winemakers is talking about it. And for good reason. Cyrus, located in the swank Hotel Les Mars, is a complete and incredible dining experience. If you haven't been, do yourself a favor and go. Cyrus succeeds in every way as a fine dining restaurant. From the decor and the ambiance, the gentle lighting and the flowers, to the beautiful bar and comprehensive cocktail & spirits program to the service staff and the food; everything is near perfect. I had one of the best meals of my life at Cyrus.

Chef Doug Keane is brilliant and has wisely surrounded himself with talanted help in the kitchen. Every dish that we had was harmonious and delicious, beautifully presented and perfectly portioned. Owner and Maitre d' Nick Peyton has assembled a terrific front of the house staff. Servers come and go gracefully, anticipating your needs but are never intrusive. I was very impressed by the knowledge, care and pride that the service staff showed while answering our questions and explaining the cuisine. And, like a proud camp counselor, I was thrilled to watch Wine Director Jason Alexander in action.

You see, Jason was my assistant sommelier for four years at Restaurant Gary Danko. We worked closely together and I am happy that today he is excelling at Cyrus. The wine list is incredible for such a young restaurant. Jason has sought out fine wines from local producers as well as rare and precious bottlings from around the world. The list is beautifully formated and elegant. Jason is a gracious sommelier. His wine knowledge is outstanding and his service is always timed perfectly. I suppose it did help that he knows my tastes; from the Champagne to the Riesling to the Burgundy, he didn't miss a beat. But I wouldn't expect any less from my formidable former assistant. Okay, I won't take all the credit... but I can be proud.