One of my better customers brought in a bottle of the Marcassin Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard "E block" from the 1995 vintage the other night, and I felt a little sheepish, because I had just recommended, and served his party a bottle of the 2002 Mer Soleil Chardonnay, right before he showed up. The Mer Soleil is always a crowd-pleaser and certainly no slouch, but I'm afraid it was no match for the E block from this outstanding producer and vintage. I was grateful for the chance to taste it, as the Marcassin wines have proven practically unattainable to those of us in the Washington market.

Deep, honey-golden color, the nose was all hazelnuts, butter, smoke and marzipan. In spite of the wine's age, I was impressed with the purity of its structure, which held up from start to finish under the crushing weight this wine's density and power. And while it might prove difficult to pair with food as a result of its sheer size, that backbone of pure acidity goes a long way toward yanking it back to food compatibility. I'd try it with a straight-forward herb-roasted capon with morels! Sheer decadence!