How would I answer the question, “What’s the most impressive wine you’ve tasted this week?” Here’s the answer with an explanation to follow: Drama, Ktima Pavlidis ’04 from Greece.

I tasted a few dozen wines this week and among that group is one I enjoyed over a year ago, and just revisited. 1982 Cos d’Estournel. I promptly added it to the wine list at Pastis restaurant.

How can an underdog young wine from the Drama region of Greece be more impressive than 1982 Cos d’Estournel, a legendary vintage and a legendary Chateau with noted wine critics chomping at the bit to sing its praises?

Distilling it in clear terms, I hope: I tasted the 1982 Cos d’Estournel over a year ago, in the fall when it was cooler, and was bowled over. That was my impression then. 1982 Cos d’Estournel is a great wine on its own regardless of season. The Cos pairs perfectly with, say, a fall dish of braised red meats and fall root vegetables on the side. Near perfection, to be way sure. But in New York City right now in mid July it’s not even close to being similar to the chilly fall season.

My wine and weather impressions this very moment are this: Oppressive, humid New York City in the middle of July with asphalt heat licking at my heels. [Side note: I still love this great city regardless of season.] When I tasted the 1982 Cos d’Estournel for the second time, five minutes after having walked twenty blocks through Manhattan in the middle of 93 degree Fahrenheit heat, I knew it had to be a part of the Pastis wine list. Yet I had no desire to enjoy it now, this month.

Then I tasted the Greek Drama wine tonight and loved it right away for comforting me with its cooling citrus notes, clean lemon/lime appeal and uplifting, refreshing acidity. It was overwhelmingly impressive. And it’s now listed at $29 a bottle on the Schiller’s wine list. The 1982 Cos d’Estournel is listed at $475 a bottle at Pastis.

I’ll thank you profusely for ordering the 1982 Cos d’Estournel this hot month of July, and then exit the floor. I’ll want to sit down with you this month and crack open a bottle of Drama to cool me off.

Would you rather sit near a blazing fire right now, or jump in my pool?