I was lucky to be one of three New York sommeliers flown to Germany by the German Trade Counsel to attend the VDP trade fair in Mainz, and to visit wine regions nearby. Joining us were sixteen sommeliers from Europe, Canada and a rather large and jovial man from Russia! This was in contrast to the “domestic†sommeliers, mostly from the east coast, that I get to meet and work with at events in the United States.
It was fascinating to hear about these sommeliers managed their wine programs, what their customers preferred, what was and was not available, how they were (under) paid, treated by the ownership, the hours they worked and the lives they lived. Wine laws and taxes were one of the big topics. It made me realize how fortunate I am living in New York City and what a wide variety of wine that is available. All the tastings, lunches, dinners and events I am invited to that I sometimes groan about…
We visited wineries in the Rheinhessen, Rhinegau and the Nahe regions, enjoying fantastic local cuisine on the way, gorging on white asparagus sometimes twice a day, ending one meal with strawberry rhubarb tart and an aged Eiswein.
On our last day we had a memorable luncheon at Robert Weil and were treated to his outstanding wines and fantastic food, starting with an amuse-bouche of millefeuille of goose liver and brioche with apple salad and a prune sauce, served with Robert Weil’s 1976 Kiedrich Grafenberg, Riesling Spatlese. The first course was a crème of white asparagus soup garnished with a shrimp scampi samosa served with a 1983 Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett. The main course was duck breast with sautéed leek, mango and ginger noodles with a Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling, Erstes Gewachs, 2003, a younger wine with tangier and drier notes to go with the pungent ginger in this superb dish. We ended with a parfait of rhubarb coated in chocolate with raspberry coulis and a banana ragout, served with a 2002 Keidrich Grefenberg Riesling Auslese “Goldkapsel†!!
Amazing and fascinating to experience the same Producer, vineyard and village site, yet in different years and classifications. They couldn’t have been more diverse. Traveling to wine regions is a true highlight of my vocation.
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