It is no secret that Champagne is one of my favorite wines. In some restaurants that I frequent, when the Sommelier or Maitre d' see me come in, they automatically bring over a glass of Champagne without asking me what I would like to drink. They know me, and often, they are a good friend.
But that is alright with me, because over the years I have always touted the pleasures of beginning (and often ending) an evening with a glass of bubbles. Nothing is more refreshing. Nothing is more elegant. Nothing gives you the lift like Champagne.

Recently, I had a Champagne that really blew my skirt up. I had tasted wines from the producer before, Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, but the 1997 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs, that a friend generously brought to our house last weekend, was absolutely stunning. All stream-lined mineral and chalky limestone, it exhibted restrained fruit-- tart green apple, quince-- on the nose, and an explosion of lean, racy flavors on the palate. This wine was precise, and it was PRECISELY the kind of Champagne that I love. The wine, for all of its crisp, Blanc de Blancs characteristics, had incredible depth and complexity. This amazed me for a brilliant Champagne that wasn't "heavy". I was suprised further when I read the back label and learned the the wine was disgorged in April 2004, less than a year ago. So, it was close to 7 years on the lees, but somehow the wine didn't have that overly yeasty, baked bread quality. In fact, all of its Champagne characteristics were in harmony. The 1997 Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Ultra-Brut Blanc de Blancs is a wine of superior quality and of sublime finesse.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier is a small, grower producer located in Vertus. The wines are imported into the USA by Michael Skurnik and are a Terry Theise Estate Selection. You can fine the wines in fine shops and restaurants where Terry Theise wines are sold.