Now that I live in downtown San Francisco, I love making new discoveries in Chinatown.
I love to eat there. And on a day when my spirits are down, I take a stroll through Chinatown and the bright colors, smells and smiles always cheer me up. I love dim sum on Sundays and sauteed mustard greens with garlic sauce any day of the week. But what to drink in Chinatown? I have happily long stopped ordering a Tsing Tao. Refreshing as Chinese beer may be, nothing beats a crisp, low-alcohol, high-acid wine with this flavorful fare. But most Chinese restaurants have extremely limited wine lists or none at all. The good news is, nearly all of the restaurants do not mind if you bring your own wine.
Some have nominal corkage fees and some none at all. The stemware, on the other hand, is never ideal, but I am not suggesting that you bring a legendary fine wine. Rather, bring something light that will cleanse the palate and bring out the delicious flavors of the cuisine.
There are many wonderful wines to accompany to Chinese food. For starters, riesling is ideal. Wines like German riesling kabinett from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer or the Rheingau. The most recent vintages have all been wonderful. If you like the spicy dishes, bring something even frutier like a spatlese or an auslese. You'll be delighted with the pairing. Another German wine that I love is Scheurebe from the Pfalz-- it is magic with Chinese food. You can also find lovely rieslings from the three As: Alsace, Austria, and Australia, although they can be a bit drier than German riesling.
But speaking of Alsace, I love pinot gris with Chinese (or Burmese) food. Here in California, Etude Winery makes a magnificent pinot gris. Bring it along on your next trip to Chinatown and you will not be disappointed. As for reds, I always go for lighter when it comes to Chinese food. My top choices are Cru Beaujolais, pinot noir, and Loire reds like Chinon. All of these are highly aromatic and full-flavored without being heavy. They pair beautifully with pork and beef dishes and can even go the distance with vegetarian main courses like sauteed tofu with beans and garlic as well as many rice and noodle dishes. The point, as always, is balance. Find the balance with the food and the wine. Be able to taste the food, be able to taste and enjoy the wine. Chinatown can be one of the city's most rewarding dinning experiences. Just BYOB and enjoy the authentic cuisine.
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