Ever notice how good food tastes and how sublimely the wine pairs when visiting the country of origin? I have just returned from traveling in Spain on a fantastic wine trip and wanted to share some of the experience.
We landed in Jerez de la Frontera, and toured the famed sherry houses. Such an amazing history to this area, going back as far as the early Phoenicians! To finally see the solera system demystified. Endless rows of barrels stretching off into the cool dimness of the bodega. The freshest fino and manzanilla were perfect with the local, crisp, fruity olives, the jamon, the incredible shellfish, the langoustines and shrimp.
We were able to catch the La Copa Jerez, an International sherry and food competition attended by 8 countries, mostly European, the USA and Japan. That is when the cutting edge, almost unthinkable sherry matches were unveiled! Imagine, roast loin of venison with artichokes and asparagus puree with an Oloroso! An absolutely perfect pairing of poached dense fig cake and coffee crème brulee with sweet Oloroso de Pedro Ximinez, amazing!
Our next stop, Ribera del Duero, where frost covered the vineyards with a furry white glaze and the fog was so dense; you could barely see your hand held in front of you! Ah, but the wine, dense and chewy and admirably suited to the chuletillas (lamb chops) and botillos (roast pig). We enjoyed some great wines in the local restaurants, Pesquera Gran Reserva 1995*, Valtravieso Gran Reserva 1994*, and on one of our many winery visits, sampling the 2003 Flor de Pingus and Pingus in barrel was surely a highlight!
In Villafranca del Bierzo, a little town nestled in the foothills of the Montes de Leon, we had our first taste of Mencia, purportedly related to Cabernet-Franc. The high altitude vineyards here are on some of the steepest slopes in Europe. Not for the faint-hearted! These wines were complex, fresh and very rewarding.
Our trusty little Fiat barely made it over the mountains into Galicia, where even in mid-winter, the verdant greenness brings to mind the rolling hills of Ireland. Here we visited Ribeiro, the land of the castles, and Rias Biaxas on the Portuguese border. For the first time in Spain we were to see the locals drinking white wine! And why not, the area is justifiably famous for the quality and sheer variety of its seafood. In the famed pilgrim city of Santiago di Compostela, we spent an unforgettable day walking through the medieval cobblestone lanes admiring the ancient architecture before relaxing in a tapas bar and gorging on gambas, spiny lobster, crab, cockles, and percebes (barnacles), all washed down with crisp, delicious albarino or ribeiro.
Our last two days were spent in Madrid ending with an incredible dinner at the famed restaurant Sanceloni, where we were royally treated by Sumiller (Sommelier) David Robledo. The classic food was delicious, the overall enthusiasm and knowledgable wine service made our dining experience.
The Spanish people, whether it was asking for directions (we were constantly lost), or being shown around the vineyards or cellars, were so incredibly hospitable. It is, all of it, a memory to savor.
*reviewed in this month’s wine picks
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